Feb 24 2006
Caserta Vecchia
In all this talk of warm, fuzzy neighborhood restaurants, turns out I missed one of the nicest: Caserta Vecchia at 221 Smith between Baltic and Butler streets. I’d never walked in because it looked too much like a restaurant my grandmother would like. And while I like both of my grandmothers, our taste in where to go out to eat doesn’t always line up. I was wrong in skipping Caserta, but I was right about one thing: My grandmother would have liked it–and it just might have been her friend flipping the dough in the back. According to the take-out menu, Grandma Maddalena was one of the first female pizza makers in New York, and they’ve got a great photo of her tossing a large pie into the air.
And about those pies. The emerge from a brick oven with a thin chewy crust. In comparison to Grimaldi’s or Totonno’s the crust is thicker and doughier, and while I missed that first familiar crackle, a slightly thicker crust holds up better in the long haul, and I think it’d also be robust enough to make an excellent delivery pie.
In old-school Brooklyn pie form, ingredients judiciously top the 12-inch personal-sized pizzas, but the quality shines through in each bite. We sampled the classic margherita and the arrabbiata, topped with mozzarella, tomato sauce, sausage, peppers and pecorino. The rich, creamy fior di latte, or "flower of the milk," mozzarella on both pies certainly pushed the meal into simple pleasures territory–a reminder that something done right with quality ingredients doesn’t need to turn somersaults on your plate, it simply needs to taste like that Platonic ideal we all carry around in our heads.
Though the margherita was solid, I preferred the arrabbiata for its variety of tender spicy sausage and roasted peppers. And I’ll be back to sample more of their varieties (18 in all). Right now the profumata (fior di latte, roasted garlic, onions and Gorgonzola) and the campagnola (fior di latte, cherry tomatoes, proscuitto di Parma, arugula and shaved parmigiano) are looking nice. That said, most of the people in the restaurant were ordering off the full Italian menu, and their food didn’t look or smell too shabby (when an appetizer of steaming mussels whizzed by, I had to smack Dennis’ hand back in his lap).
Best of all, Caserta Vecchia delivers to the southern side of Carroll Gardens and are nothing but neighborly on the phone and in person. And while I wouldn’t call the service flawless, it was certainly loving, which is–after all–what I’ve been looking for in the first place.
For more great Brooklyn pizza, try Slice.
13 Responses to “Caserta Vecchia”
Let’s just hope this place doesn’t turn into another Dunken Donuts.
Hopefully it’ll be a bank or pharmacy!
That was my last stupid gentrification-by-way-of-boring-businesses joke.
This ground has probably been covered elsewhere, but anyways, my 2 cents for best neighborhood pizza is Giardini on the corner of Smith and…1st…? Granted, it can be uneven and their slices tend to sit for too long, but when they get the whole pie right, it’s awe inspiring.
that sounds terrific. and i love grandma places
i think mostly because i’m just an old-fashioned girl…
I’ve yet to try their pizza, but I had a really, really mediocre pasta there. Which was kinda dumb, cuz all anyone ever talks about is their pies. But it was a pleasant spot, and the back patio was great.
Yeah, Caserta’s pizza isn’t bad but they aren’t so good with keeping it hot for delivery, not to mention pick up. I live a few blocks away and they send a delivery guy just holding the box. No warmer, nothing. Same thing when you come pick it up. Who wants to eat lukewarm pizza? I guess that’s their way of punishing you for not eating at the restaurant itself.
Caserta trivia: before they opened their was a lot of buzz about it in some newspapers and magazines, etc. The day they were supposed to open there was a fire – either in the restaurant or in an apartment above – and the opening was delayed for months. It finally opened to little or no buzz.
To add to the list of great brooklyn pizza places:
there’s a great place near the 4th Ave/9th St stop on the F, M, R line..it’s on 4th Ave between 11th and 12th St. There’s a pizza shaped sign aptly titled “Pizza”, a neon window advertisement called “Gourmet Slices”, and the menu reads “Mike’s Pizza”. I’m guessing that last one is the name of the place. But they make a very good pizza, if you’re ever out in the area.
Caserta is my favorite Italian in the neighborhood. Its not a ‘pizza parlor’ so don’t do delivery anyway. But pizza is great and always a good meal.
We were in the same boat… knew the place was there but never thought to go in.
Last Saturday night we finally tried it and it was a fine meal. The pizzas are very nicely done, the staff was super welcoming, and it appeared to be filled with lots of old school brooklyn folks (i.e. very few ironic t-shirts).
It’s a great addition to the pizza choices on Smith Street.
I really love this place. The staff is super nice and I have always had good food there. They are not trendy, they are personable and authentic, and frankly, I prefer that.
Caserta Vecchia best Neapolitan food, exceptional atmosphere, Lina is a great host, you will be delighted. I love the focaccia. Family environment, bring the children along they will enjoy Lina’s home made cookies.
The food is excellent and the prices are very reasonable.
I definitely recommend this place.
Caserta Vecchia best Neapolitan food, exceptional atmosphere, Lina is a great host, you will be delighted. I love the focaccia. Family environment, bring the children along they will enjoy Lina’s home made cookies.
The food is excellent and the prices are very reasonable.
I definitely recommend this place.
Horrible restaurant! The food they serve is definitely not italian (I know, cuz i spent 2 semesters in Italy)and the menu is misleading. the courses you order never have the ingredients that are listed on the menu. And the pizza….Do they even know what pizza is???
Never will go back!